L U G A R E S D O M U N D O . C O M

Machu Pichu was in my list of the ten best places in the world to visit. I was expecting to see a wonderful site, with beautiful ruins and lots of stories. As I arrived Peru, I found out that the trip would be much more special than I supposed.

Text and photos: Patrícia Bagdonas
English version: Ricardo Giannini

My itinerary started at Cuzco, colonial city and capital of Inca Empire, declared Human Cultural Asset by Unesco. It was considered by Incas as the “belly hole of the world”, constructed in a region of ruins of temples and palaces of the ancient civilization. The city has a main square, “Plaza de las Armas” (Army Square), where the commerce, restaurants, hotels and other constructions, besides small shops can be found. The city is nervous, might be due to the majority of people passing by, in their way to Machu Pichu or to the ruins nearby.

Close to the square, it is located a very important temple, Qorincancha, dedicated to the God Sun. Curious that the Saint Domingo Convent was constructed exactly on the top of the temple; so, today, we see a mix of convent and temple. People used to say that the walls of such temple were lined with gold, but Spanish took it all.

To know better the history of all these places, the best thing to do is to hire a local guide, as in the tourist attractions there is no explanation about the ruins and nothing better than listening a native proudly telling the history of the people.

In the city as well as in the ruins, it is possible to enjoy the Peruvian craftwork, and get ready! You will be crazy to buy lots of things, mainly due to the exciting sport of bargaining and getting specially good prices for the merchandise. I even got an offer to trade my wristwatch for a sweater!
The people is very nice, but be aware: if you want to take a picture with any native, you’ll have to spend some cash, well, this is what makes their living...

After visiting Cuzco and surroundings, I headed to Machu Pichu. There are several ways to get there, all of them leaving from Cuzco. The most common is to take a train to “Aguas Calientes” (hot waters), a small village in the footing of Machu Pichu Mountain, and then go by foot, by the “Caminho do Inca” (Trail of the Inca). You can pick between a long trail (takes about four days walking) or the short one (one day walking). I picked the short one, I was afraid to be sick from the famous “soroche” (illness of altitude).

The city of Aguas Calientes has a good tourist structure (remember that you are in the interior of Peru, visiting ruins) and there is a little of everything: art and crafts market, near the bus station to Machu Pichu, crafts tents by the train track (it is interesting to see this, looks like the train will smash them all), restaurants and fine silver shops. The most intriguing attraction is the Termas, kind of hot water pool, springing up from the stone floor. Because it is sulfuric water, the smell is not very pleasant, besides the dark color that, to some folks, gives the impression of dirtiness. “Tells the tail” that this water is always replaced. Just in case, remember to take a sandal, as the dressing rooms are not very clean and do not have showers; bath is taken outside in one of the sulfurous showers.

The trip by train from Cuzco to the begging of the short trail takes around four hours and thirty. Buy your ticket in advance, as everybody prefers the train that leaves at 6:30 AM. We disembarked the train at Km 104 and started the trail (you must by a ticket to get into the park and it is the same one requested in a point ahead). The trail is simply wonderful and as you climb the mountain, the railroad disappears. The short trail has 12 km long or little more and good part of it is open field (no vegetation to protect from sun and heat), but “no sweat!”: there are break points in strategic places, when you think you can not move another step, there they are....kiosks!!! But, nothing is perfect! Don’t think they are like the beach kiosks. Water? Only if you have some left in your canteen. In the trail segment where the forest is more like rain forest, it is possible to see the rich fauna and even take a bath in a small waterfall.

At several places in the track, we must climb steps and use very narrow paths, but all is compensated by the view of the mountains and the ruins, we see during the way, like Winay Wayna, that is a block of houses, connected by steps, with fountain structures (like falls), as small bathtubs.
Just after Winay Wayna ruins, you will find a tourist support area, with sanitary, lunch house and camping spot.

After walking all day long, finally we reach the “Porto do Sol” (Gate of the Sun), from where one can see Machu Pichu far away. Still, in the way to the ruins, one can find a stone, on, even today, offerings, in general coca leaves or candies, are left.
Machu Pichu – “Pico Velho”, “Montanha Velha” (old peak or old mountain) – is located in Urubamba County and it is characterized by a warm and humid climate, rains from November to March. Landscape is a spectacle in itself on all this adventure: it is unbelievable how they did build this town, laying between mountains and how many interesting stories are told about the constructions left over. Before you walk around the town, go to the belvedere and admire every inch of the scenery ahead of you, you will not get tired of it! Focus on the snowy peaks and the so-called “forest of clouds”, what make the visual much, much better.
Fauna and flora are very rich; 170 different species of orchids are found in the region.

Visiting the city, one finds several references to the advanced knowledge of the Incas on Astronomy. The majority of constructions looks like being houses, even though, one can find temples and other kind of buildings around. There is no clear information on what role Machu Pichu did play – city or sanctuary, inhabited by the clergy and the “Virgens do Sol” (virgins of the Sun) – specially picked women.
The area was divided in agricultural and urban sectors. Agricultural sector was constituted by platforms, surrounding the city, with the clear purpose of facilitating planting and prevent erosion from rain. In the Urban sector, the ruins of the buildings left from Inca architecture, made with big crafted stones.

It is not only Machu Pichu, but other ruins around Peru have innumerous stories, theories, and spectacular symbology to tell. You must go and be amazed with what was left from a past made of splendor and mystery that today is still venerated by an offended people, glittering simplicity and sympathy.